From haute couture to the high street, everybodys getting in on the fur revival this winter. A strong direction was cast in the use of fur for upcoming fashions, and ready-to-wear is especially reaping the rewards of the inherently warm must-have of the season.
Classic designs were given luxury make-overs when collars, cuffs and trims were adorned with a variety of furs, faux or real, in the autumn/winter collections for 2010/2011. Colours were accentuated, contours were curvaceous and glamour came bouncing back to the catwalk.
The season darling of the military trend was lifted high into the sky with the welcome return of the aviator jacket. Burberry led the way with different fabrics and shapes but focussing on the oversized shearling collar with Juicy Couture and Reiss happy to follow. The intrinsic warmth of lambswool has lovingly been embraced by a number of different cuts, styles and designers, such as Roberto Cavalli, Vera Wang and Vivienne Westwood, with Mongolian lamb a favourite but also more pastoral hides like Tibetan, Kalgan or Toscana lamb being used.
The shearling effect has been put to good use with classic cut long coats with the likes of Alberta Ferretti and Valentino producing shape enhancing lines brought to life by fur collar trims. An example wisely pursued by high street favourites such as Windsmoor, Planet, Wallis and French Connection.
Other fashion phoenixes of the military genre include the trench and pea coats seeing their re-incarnation in varied styles and furs. Youth-oriented labels have particularly taken to their re-birth with Andrew Gn and popular high street brands such as Miss Selfridge, adding a fur lining or finish to the collars with fashion giant Prada giving a new take on the theme too. The duffle coat has also been given a fur injection on trims and in hoods with items from Ralph Laurens Tangleford, Debenhams Collection range, Whistles Nancy and a wide selection of patterns and colours from Dorothy Perkins.
Master fur manipulators, Fendi, have combined a season darling of bold and eye-catching animal prints in a full length coat and so too has Phillip Lim and Betty Jackson which has been morphed in faux by department store regulars Oasis, Biba and Warehouse, together with online retailers ASOS. Gilets, vests and coatdresses have warmed many an outfit this winter mainly in lambswool, mink, fox and sable. These were seen down the catwalk presented by Anna Sui, Rick Owens, Antonio Berardi, Blugirl and Valentino with the commercial faux contingent from brands CC and Lipsy, plus shearling versions from River Island, Vero Moda and Club L.
Mink, broadtail and beaver took back their rightful ownership of capelets, stoles and boleros as showcased by Carolina Herrera, Andy and Debb and Christian Dior but unsurprisingly fox seems to be the most popular choice for coats and jackets. Even though vintage chinchilla is in demand, the use of fox means no longer is the wearer feeling the coat as a heavy burden, as fox is a more lightweight pelt that gives the appearance of volume in its fur. The oversized, puffed high collars and big shoulders can be seen on the capes and coats available and cut the seasons silhouette for fur fashion.
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